edit Paris Travel Guide

• Slow down your morning, and people watch at a cafe. Enjoy a handmade crossant and slowly sipping the fine french coffee.  Then go stroll the streets and explore the many impressive neighborhood, such as the Ille St Louis with its many mansions,or the student area of St Germain de Pres
  
• Visit The Louvre. Often considered one of the finest museums in the world, it would take weeks to do the Louve justice so make sure you allocate some time here.  Then if that wasn't enough for you culture junkies the Musee De Orsay is another world class museum that your can't miss as well.
• Take the elevator to the top of The Eiffel Tower, once the tallest man-made structure on earth, has become ubiquitous of the words Paris, and France...And of course a stop here is a must for anybody.  
• Stroll into Notre Dame as the sun is setting.  One of the most impressive and famous churches in the world, can be even more awe inspiring as the shadows fall over the city.

Paris started life as the Celto-Roman settlement of Lutetia on the Île de la Cité. It takes its present name from the name of the dominant Gallo-Celtic tribe in the region, the Parisii. At least that's what the Romans called them, when they showed up in 52 BCE and established their city Lutetia on the left bank of the Seine, in what is now called the "Latin Quarter" in the 5th arrondissement.

The Romans held out here for as long as anywhere else in the Western Empire, but by 508 they were gone, replaced by Clovis of the Franks, who is considered by the French to be their first king. Clovis' descendants, aka the Carolingians, held on for nearly 500 years though Viking raids and other calamities forced a move by most of the population back to the islands which had been the center of the Celtic village. The Capetian duke of Paris was voted to succeed the last of the Carolingians as king of France, insuring the city of its premier position in the medieval world. Over the next several centuries Paris expanded onto the right bank into what was called "the Marais". Quite a few buildings from this time can be seen in the 4th arrondissement.

The medieval period also witnessed the founding of the Sorbonne. As the "University of Paris", it became one of the most important centers for learning in Europe, if not the whole world, for several hundred years. Most of the institutions that constitute the University are found in the 5th, and 13th arrondissements.

The Capetian and later the Bourbon kings of France made their mark on Paris with such buildings as the Louvre and the Palais Royal, both in the 1st, but the Paris which most visitors know and love was built long after they were gone in the 19th century when Baron von Hausmann reconstructed adding the long straight avenues, and demolishing many of the medieval houses which had been left until that time.

New wonders arrived during la Belle Époque, as the Parisian golden age of the late 19th century is known. Gustave Eiffel's famous tower, the first metro lines, most of the parks, and the streetlights, which are partly believed to have given the city its epithet "the city of light" all come from this period. The epithet actually comes from Ville Lumière, a reference not only to the then revolutionary electrical lighting system implemented in the streets of Paris, but also to the prominence and aura of Enlightenment the city gained in that era.

The twentieth century was hard on Paris, but thankfully not as hard as it could have been. Hitler's order to burn the city was thankfully ignored by the German General von Choltitz who was quite possibly convinced by a Swedish diplomat that it would be better to surrender and be remembered as the savior of Paris, than to be remembered as its destroyer. Following the war the city recovered slowly at first, and then more quickly in the 1970s and 1980s when Paris began to experience some of the problems faced by big cities everywhere: pollution, housing shortages, and occasionally failed experiments in urban renewal. During this time however Paris enjoyed considerable growth as a multi-cultural city, with new immigrants from all corners of the world, especially la francophonie, including most of northern and western Africa as well as Vietnam and Laos. These immigrants brought their foods and music both of which are of prime interest for many travelers. Today, there's more nationalities represented in Paris than even in New York (over 100).

Immigration and multi-culturalism continues! The 21st century has seen a marked increase in the arrival of people from Latin America, especially Mexico, Colombia, and Brazil. In the late 1990s it was hard to find good Mexican food in Paris, however, today there are dozens of possibilities from lowly taquerias in the outer arrondissements to nice sit-down restaurants on the boulevards. The chili pepper has arrived. Meanwhile Latin music from Salsa to Samba is all the rage (well, alongside Paris lounge electronica).

The 21st century has also seen vast improvements in the general livability of Paris, with the Mayor's office concentrating on reducing pollution and improving facilities for soft forms of transportation including a huge network of cycle paths, larger pedestrian districts and newer faster metro lines. Visitors who normally arrive car-less are the beneficiaries of these policies as much as the Parisians themselves are.

By plane

Paris is served by three international airports - for more information, including arrival/departure times, check the official sites.

Charles de Gaulle International Airport (Roissy ICAO: LFPG, IATA: CDG) to the north-east of the city is one of the major hub airports of Europe. It's notoriously confusing, so allow plenty of time for transfers. There are three terminals: Terminal 1, Terminal 2 (which is huge and subdivided into 2A through 2F), and Terminal 3 (formerly T9). The free CDGVAL shuttle train connects the terminals together.

For getting to or from Paris, RER-B has stations in T1 (from where you can walk to T3) and T2; trains to Paris (Châtelet-Les Halles) leave every 15 minutes, cost %u20AC8,50 each and take around 40 minutes, making this the fastest and cheapest way to connect. Alternatively, the Roissybus service connects all terminals directly to Opéra Garnier in central Paris, but it's subject to traffic jams and takes 60-90 minutes even on a good day. There is also a TGV station in T2 for high-speed connections, mostly towards Lille and Brussels, but there are also some trains that head south to eg. Rennes and Nantes, bypassing Paris.

Orly International Airport (ICAO: LFPO, IATA: ORY), to the south-west of the city, and served by a southern branch of the RER-B line. This older international airport is used mainly by Air France for national lines, and other international carriers in Europe. Orly is roughly forty minutes from Paris via the OrlyBus, which departs from Métro Denfert-Rochereau; the price is %u20AC6.

Beauvais (Aéroport de Paris Beauvais Tillé ICAO: LFOB, IATA: BVA), to the north of the city, is a smaller regional airport that is used by some low-cost carriers, such as RyanAir. The airport operates a shuttle service connecting with the Métro at Porte Maillot station. Buses leave 20 minutes after each flight arrives, and a few hours before each flight departs. This is important: you should be there waiting for the bus around three hours and fifteen minutes before your flight, and the bus stop has no facilities, it's just a parking lot! Exact times can be found on the Beauvais Airport website. The journey will take about an hour in good traffic conditions, and costs %u20AC13 each way (as of October 2006).

In addition to public transport, Air France operates shuttles between Charles de Gaulle and Paris (%u20AC10 - %u20AC12), Orly and Paris (%u20AC7.5) and between the two airports (%u20AC15). Note that if you have connecting Air France flights that land and depart from different airports, you would still generally need to fetch your luggage after landing, catch either the Air France shuttle or a taxi to the other airport and check-in again. This altogether could take up to 2 hours particularly if traffic is at its worse. It is also common to lose time during disembarking, as passengers often need to get off at the tarmac and get on buses which will bring them to the terminal building. Be sure to have sufficient time between flights to catch your connection. Note that check-in counters usually close 30 minutes before the flight departs.

To get to the city center you'll need a Noctilien bus if you arrive to CDG Airport at night. The bus stops in all three terminals (in terminal 2 it will be the second level in departure section - it is very difficult to find, but it really exists). The bus leaves every 30 minutes after 00:30. The buses you'll need are N121 and N120, the price is 7 Euro.

By train

There are several stations serving Paris. You will probably want to know in advance at which station your train is arriving, so as to better choose a hotel and plan for transport within the city.

• Gare du Nord, (10th), Métro: Gare du Nord - TGV trains to and from Belgium and the Netherlands (Thalys), and the United Kingdom (Eurostar) and regular trains from Northern Europe.
• Gare d'Austerlitz, (13th), Métro: Gare d'Austerlitz - regular trains to and from the center and southwest of France (Orléans, Limoges, Toulouse the long way), Spain and Portugal and arrival of majority of the night trains.
• Gare de l'Est, (10th), Métro: Gare de l'Est - trains to and from Eastern Europe
• Gare de Lyon, (12th), Métro: Gare de Lyon - regular and TGV trains to and from Southern and eastern France: Marseille, Lyon, Dijon, Switzerland: Geneva, Lausanne and Italy.
• Gare St Lazare, (8th) Métro: St-Lazare - trains to and from Basse-Normandie, Haute-Normandie
• Gare Montparnasse, (15th), Métro: Montparnasse-Bienvenüe - TGV and regular trains to and from the west and south-west of France (Brest, Rennes, Nantes, Bordeaux, Toulouse the fastest way and Spain)

The SNCF (French national railway authority) operates practically all trains within France excluding the Eurostar to London and the Thalys to Brussels and onward to the Netherlands and Germany. There are also a few local lines of high touristic interest which are privately owned. All SNCF, Eurostar and Thalys tickets can be bought in railway stations, city offices and travel agencies (no surcharge). The SNCF website is very convenient to book and buy tickets up to two months in advance. There are significant discounts if you book early. To get the best rates you should book at least four weeks ahead. Surprisingly, round trip tickets (aller-retour) with a stay over Saturday night can be cheaper than a single one-way ticket (aller simple). A very limited selection of last minute trips are published on the SNCF website every Tuesday, with discounts of more than 50%.

There a a number of different kinds of high speed and normal trains:

• TER Regional trains and normal day or night trains (no special name) operate to and from most cities in France and are usually your best bet for destinations all over France. These are the trains you'll find yourself on if you have a Eurail pass, and don't want to pay extra for reservations.

• TGV - the world-famous French high-speed trains (Trains à Grande Vitesse) run several times a day to the Southeast Nice(5-6h), Marseille (3h) and Avignon (2.5 h), the East Geneva (3h) or Lausanne, Switzerland and Dijon (1h15) , the Southwest Bordeaux (3h), the West Rennes (3h) and the North Lille (less than 1h). Eurostar to London (2h40) and Thalys to Brussels (1h20) use almost identical trains.

• Thalys - a high-speed train service running daily to/from the Netherlands and Belgium - it can be a bit expensive compared to normal trains

• Intercity Intercity trains leave for all parts of Europe, including overnight trains to San Sebastian in Spain, Porto and Lisbon in Portugal.

• Eurostar - the Eurostar service connects Paris with London directly and Brussels indirectly, as well many other destinations indirectly through the various west European rail services. Travel time between Paris and London Waterloo International currently averages at 2 hours 40 minutes and will decrease even further with new tracks being laid up to 2007.
  

By car

Several autoroutes link Paris with the rest of France: A1 and A3 to the north, A5 and A6 to the south, A4 to the east and A13 and A10 to the west. Not surprisingly traffic jams are significantly worse during French school holidays. Online visual traffic information is available at http://www.sytadin.equipement.gouv.fr/.

The multi-lane highway around Paris, called the Périphérique, is probably preferable to driving through the center. Another beltway nearing completion La Francilienne loops around Paris about 10 km further out from the Périphérique.

It is advised not to drive in the Paris Metro Area. It is better to drive to a metro station with a parking lot and then use the metro to continue your trip throughout Paris. Traffic inside the city tends to be heavy, especially at rush hour, driving however may be rather easy and efficient in the evening; parking also is difficult. Also, the medieval nature of parts of the city's street system makes it very confusing, and traffic will almost never allow one to stop or slow down to get one's bearings. If you are unfamiliar with the streets and still insist on driving in the city, make sure you have a navigator in the passenger seat with you.

By bus

Eurolines is a transeuropean bus company that offers trips to Paris. http://www.eurolines.com

By Car

It is generally a bad idea to rent a car to visit Paris. Traffic is very dense, and parking tends to be difficult. This is especially true in areas surrounding points of touristic interest, since many of these are in areas designed long before automobiles existed. Many Parisian households do not own cars.

Driving may be an option for going to some sights in the suburbs such as Vaux-le-Vicomte castle or the castle and city at Fontainebleau, or for starting to other places in France. You may prefer to rent from a location not situated in Paris proper.

By Mass Transit

Paris has an excellent subway train system, known as the Métro (short for Chemin de Fer Métropolitain i.e. Metropolitan Railways). There are 16 lines (lignes) (1-14, 3bis and 7bis) on which trains travel all day at intervals of a few minutes between 5 AM and 1:30AM, stopping at all stations on the line. Line 14, which is fully automated, is called the Méteor. Scheduled times for first and last trains are posted in each station on the center sign. By 2007, the metro is to extend its working hours until 2-3AM.

In addition there are 5 express lines called RER A, B, C, D, E. They can be used within Paris with a regular subway ticket. RER trains run at intervals of about 6 - 7 minutes, and stop at every station within Paris. For stations that are outside the 20 arrondissements of Paris, check the information board hanging from the ceiling on the platform.

A single ticket costs %u20AC1.50; however, it is generally not advisable to buy tickets by the unit and to rather purchase a carnet of ten tickets, which can be bought for %u20AC11.30 at any station, that will bring the price per ticket down to %u20AC1.13. The ticket is valid for unlimited transfers metro, RER, bus and tram transfers during one hour.

A 1-day ticket is called Carte Mobilis and the price is 5 euros. There are also 1 to 5 day tourist passes, called Paris Visite, available, starting at %u20AC8.35 for one day of unlimited travel within Paris and inner suburbs. 'Carte Orange' is cheaper, even if tourists are not supposed to buy it for some obscure reason you can easily buy one.

Métro stations both have ticket windows and automatic vending machines. Ticket windows in certain stations tend to be crowded, often with groups of foreign tourists. Instead, try finding out if your debit/credit card works in the automatic machine and buy tickets for the whole group.

If you're staying a bit longer it might be interesting to get a Carte Orange Hebdomadaire (1 week pass, %u20AC16 for Paris and inner suburbs) or Mensuelle (1 month pass). For the Carte Orange you need one small photograph -- you can use a photomat in a larger métro station or photocopy and trim your passport photo. Note that an Hebdomadaire (eb-DOH-ma-DAYR: in French you don't pronounce the H) starts on Mondays and a Mensuelle on the first of the month. There is some confusion about whether tourists are permitted to buy the Carte Orange rather than the more expensive Paris Visite passes. The Carte Orange info has been removed from the English-language metro (RATP) website but is still on the French version as of April 2005. If one agent turns you down for the Carte Orange try going to a different window. In the recent times nobody experienced problems about buying one Carte Orange being a tourist.

RATP is responsible for public transport including metro, buses, and some of the high speed inter-urban trains (RER). The rest of the RER is operated by SNCF. However, both companies take the same tickets, so the difference is of little interest for most people except in case of strikes (because RATP may strike while SNCF does not, or the other way round). Current fares can be found at their website. Basically, as you move further from Paris, tickets get more expensive.

The lines are named according to the names of their terminal stations (those at the end of the line). If you ask the locals about directions they will answer something like : take line number n toward "end station 1", change at "station", take the line nn toward "end station 2" etc. The metro system has started implementing a color code, and on some lines N E S W directions. They are apparently ignored by the locals.

Each station displays a detailed map of the surrounding area with a street list and the location of buildings (monuments, schools, places of worship etc.). Maps are located on the platform if the station has several exits or near the exit if there is only one.

Trick: If you have any tickets or carte orange for zone 1-2 ("inside" Paris area: the lower rate) and want go to La Defense from Chatelet, you have to take the metro (line 1). you can take the RER A (and save a few minutes) but you have to pay an additionnal fare, because even though you arrive at the same station, the RER exit is supposed to be outside of Paris! On the other hand, métro fares are the same, even in the suburbs. So be careful, there are a lot of ticket examiners where you get out from the RER A...

When the train arrives, the doors may not open automatically. In such a case, there are handles located both inside and outside the train which you have to push in order to open the door.

NB: Keep your métro ticket or carte orange with you at all times, you may be checked or "controlled." You will be cited and forced to pay on the spot. Most likely spots for controls are at big métro stations or during métro line changes "correspondances". RATP agents may be present in the metro stations even on sunday night. You are highly likely to encounter a team of "controleurs" if you ride the Noctilien, especially on weekends.

Tip: you can download on your Palm or handheld a very neat program that will give you all the Métro, buses & night buses itineraries a few tips to notable places...very useful. (BTW, it works for a lot of cities around the world)

By Foot

Walking in Paris is one of the great pleasures of visiting the City of Light. It's possible to cross the entire city in only a few hours, if you can somehow keep yourself from stopping at numerous cafés and shops. In fact within a few years walking combined with biking and the Métro will be the only way to get around the very center of Paris: The Mayor's office has announced plans to declare the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th arrondissements almost totally car-free by 2012.

The smartest travellers take advantage of the walkability of this city, and stay above ground as much as possible. A metro ride of less than 2 stops is probably best avoided since walking will take about the same amount of time and you'll be able to see more of the city.

To get a great orientation of the city on foot while seeing many of Paris' major sights, you can do a West to East walk from the Arc de Triomphe to Ile de la Cite (Notre Dame). This walk takes about 2 hours without any stops. Start at the top of the Champs Elysees (at the Arc de Triomphe) and begin walking down the Champs Elysees towards Place ('square') de la Concorde. On the way towards the obelisk on the square, you'll see the major stores and restaurants of Paris' most famous avenue. Once you've passed the main shopping area, you'll see the Petit Palais and the Grand Palais to your right. At Place de la Concorde, you'll be able to see many of Paris' major monuments around you. In front of you is the Tuileries, behind you is the Champs-Elysees and Arc de Triomphe, behind you to your right is the Tour Eiffel and Musee d'Orsay, and finally, to your left is the Madeleine. Continue straight ahead and enter the Tuileries Gardens passing by fountains, flowers... and lovers in the park. As you continue straight ahead, and out of the garden, you'll see the pyramid entrance to the Louvre directly in front of you. With the pyramid directly in front of you, and the Tuileries directly behind you, turn to your right and walk towards the Seine. Now you can walk along the Seine (eastwards) until you reach Pont Neuf. Cross Pont Neuf and walk through the Latin Quarter, cross the river again to reach Notre Dame cathedral on Ile de la Cité.

You may have heard of the hazard of walking into dog droppings in Paris. However, this is now largely a thing of the past, with the current city administration aggressively enforcing fines against dog owners who do not properly clean after their pets. Pet owners are reminded that not cleaning after their pet may result in a fine of 183%u20AC up to 450%u20AC, and the City of Paris has increased the number of agents enforcing this law.

By Boat

There is an excellent boat service which makes use of the Seine. As well as providing easy, cheap transport to much of central Paris, excellent photo opportunities abound. You can buy a day or 3 day ticket and hop on and off the boat as needed. The boat takes a circular route from the Eiffel Tower, down past the Louvre, Notre Dame, botanical gardens then back up the other bank past Musee D'orsay.

Bicycle

Renting a bike is a very good alternative over driving or using public transport. Riding a bike anywhere in the city is far safer for the moderately experienced cyclists than almost any town or city in the United States. The French are very cognizant of cyclists, almost to a point of reverence. A few years ago Paris wasn't the easiest place to get around by bike. That however has changed dramatically in recent years, starting perhaps with a lengthy bus and traffic jam. The city government has taken a number of steps in strong support of improving the safety and efficiency of the urban cyclist as well, in establishing some separated bike lanes, but even more important a policy of allowing cyclists to share the ample bus lanes on most major boulevards. Paris also has many riversides which are perfect for cycling as well. The Paris bike network now counts over 150 km (93 miles) of either unique or shared lanes for the cyclist.

You can find an excellent map of the bike network called Plan des itinéraires cyclables (download here) at the information center in the 'Hôtel de Ville.

Bikes can be rented from numerous private vendors, including Fat Tire Bike Tours, Bike About Tours, and Roue Libre, a joint project of the Mayor's office and the RATP.

To contact Fat Tire Bike Tours call their office at 33 6 56 58 10 54,. They are open daily, and rentals are %u20AC2/hour, %u20AC15/day, %u20AC25/2 day period, or %u20AC45/week. They are located at 24, rue Edgar Faure, 75015. Fat Tire also provides daily tours.

The Bike About ( 06 21 18 46 93) rental point is located in the center of Paris at the Vinci Car Park, just behind the town hall or "Hotel de Ville" (Rue Lobau). They are open daily, and rentals are %u20AC4/hour, %u20AC15/day, %u20AC25/2 day period. They also provide guided bike tours of Paris, given by local, English-speaking guides who know the city well. This is a great way to experience Paris. They are one of the smaller tour companies in Paris & give you a great insiders look at the city.

In addition to operating a number of bike rental buses, the RATP has some permanent locations, including:

• Roue Libre Les Halles, . 1 passage Mondétour (face au 120 rue Rambuteau), Métro: Les Halles. : 33 8 10 44 15 34. Opening hours from 9 a.m. until 7 p.m. Bikes can be rented for one weekend (%u20AC25), Monday to Friday (%u20AC20), a working day (%u20AC9), or one day in the weekend (%u20AC14).
• Roue Libre Bastille, . 37, boulevard Bourdon, Métro: Bastille. 33 1 44 54 19 29. Opening hours from 9 a.m. until 7 p.m. Bikes can be rented for one weekend (%u20AC25), Monday to Friday (%u20AC20), a working day (%u20AC9), or one day in the weekend (%u20AC14).

Bus

Since the Métro is primarily structured around a "hub and spoke" model, there are some journeys for which it can be quite inefficient, and in these cases it is worth seeing if a direct bus route exists, despite the complexity of the bus network. A bus ride is also interesting if you want to see more of the city. The Parisian bus system is quite tourist-friendly. It uses the same single-ride tickets and Carte Orange as the Métro, and electronic displays inside each bus tell riders its current position and what stops remain, eliminating a lot of confusion.

These same payment devices are also valid in the Noctilien, the night bus, where tickets normally cost %u20AC2.70. Noctambus routes all begin hourly at Chatelet and run to outlying areas of greater Paris. It pays to know one's Noctambus route ahead of time in case one misses the last Métro home. Women travellers should probably avoid taking the Noctambus on their own.

Taxi

Paris has too few taxis, so do not expect to be able to flag one down without a wait. If you know you will need one to get to the airport, or to a meeting, it is wise to book ahead by phone (Taxis Bleues and Taxis G7). Taxis are comparatively cheap, especially at night, when there are no traffic jams to be expected. In the daytime, it is not always a good idea to take a taxi, as walking or taking the metro (See: Métro) will often be faster.

To stop a taxi, watch the sign on the roof:

• if the white sign is lit, the cab is on duty & available,
• if the white sign is off and a colored light is lit under it (blue, orange), it's on duty and busy,
• if the white sign is off and no coloured light is on, the taxi's off duty.

Remember if a taxi is near a 'taxi station', they're not supposed to pick you up but at the station... where there may be people waiting... Taxi stations are usually near train stations, big hotels, hospitals, large crossings... You can also call for taxis & make a reservation in advance or book a flat rate. When a taxi stops, he will sometimes pull down his window and expect you to tell where you go. Sometimes, a taxi can be difficult to stop, and you have to try several times. If the driver can't go where you want, he might tell you so in a somewhat offhand manner -not expected of a taxi driver in other parts of the world %u2014As often as not they'll tell you they're near the end of their working day & can't possibly get you where you want before they have to turn off-duty.

Keep in mind that there is a %u20AC5.50 minimum on all taxi rides, mandated by city law, but the meter does not show this amount, which can result in being asked to pay more than the metered amount on short rides.

Also, you might not always expect the taxi to drive you to the doorstep, if they want to let you out a block away if the route is difficult, they will do so. You usually pay still seating in the cab (not through the front window, New York style)-just avoid misunderstandings. The driver will not let you sit in the front seat (save if there's 3 or 4 of you, & they generally don't like that), and will expect you to get in the back. Taxi-drivers come in all types, some nice, some rude, some wanting to chat, some not. Smoking in taxis is generally not allowed, just ask & it might be that the taxi driver himself wants a cigarette. Many taxis won't have you using your cellphone during the ride; if you do have to, make an apologizing gesture & sound, and do make a short call.

• Tip is included in the fare price; If you're especially satisfied with the service, you can give something (basically 10%), but you don't have to.
• A price is added for suitcases.

You don't have to have problems with drivers; just try and be nice, and be ready for the unexpected %u2014a smiling, knowledgeable, English-speaking cab driver ;-). If you wish to file a complaint, note the taxi's number on the sticker on the left hand backseat window.

Paris has a relatively moderate climate so the city rarely sees extremely high or low temperatures. The summers are fairly warm with average high temperatures around 75F and low temperatures around 60F. Winters can be pretty cold, but they rarely fall below freezing point, with average temperatures around 35F - 45F. Spring and fall usually consist of pleasant days and cool evenings.  Paris can receive sudden rain just about anytime of year, though spring and fall are most likely.  While it can occasionally snow in the winter, its not a common occurrence.

Police and Fire Department

In cases of emergencies to reach the police dial 17, to reach the fire department  or to get an ambulence dial 18.    You can also get a private ambulance (SAMU) by dialing 15.  

For non emergency issues you can call the principal Prefecture 01-53-73-5371 located at 9 bd. du Palais, 4e. 

Medical

There are many hospitals throughout Paris and even some of the more upscale large hotels have doctors on staff.  If you need to go to a hospital directly, you might try the 24hr American Hospital on 63 bd., Victor-Hugo, Neuilly. (phone: 01-46-41-25-25) with billengual enlish and french speaking staff and the added benefit of compatability with many American health insurance plans.

If you just need access to a pharmacy, french law requires at least one drugstore within a neighborhood to be open 24 hrs and the ones that don't stay open must post directions to the closest one that is, so finding medicine should be relatively easy. 

Crime

Crime in Paris is similar to most small cities, but violent crime is uncommon in the heart of the city. Pickpockets are active on the rail link (RER) from Charles de Gaulle airport to downtown Paris and on the number one metro (subway) line that cuts across the city center east to west servicing many of the major tourist sites. A common scheme is for one thief to distract the tourist with questions or disturbance while an accomplice picks pockets, a backpack or purse. Thieves often time their crime to coincide with the closing of the automatic doors on the metro, leaving the victim secured on the departing train. Many thefts also occur at the major department stores (Galleries Lafayette, Printemps and Samaritaine) where tourists leave wallets, passports and credit cards on cashier counters during transactions.

Popular tourist sites are also popular hunting grounds for thieves who favor congested areas to mask their activities. The crowded elevators at the Eiffel Tower, escalators at museums and the area around the Sacre Coeur church in Montmarte are all favored by pickpockets and snatch-and-run thieves. The area around the famous Moulin Rouge is known as Pigalle and best avoided after dark unless with a tour group headed for a show. Pigalle is an adult entertainment area known for prostitutes, sex shows and drugs. Unsuspecting tourists often run up exorbitant bar bills and are forced to pay before being permitted to leave.

The March aux Puces (Les Puces) flea market is virtually designed to make pickpocketing easy and gangs can be witnessed spotting victims. Walkways are often crowded, narrow, dark, with no way out except to wait for the extraordinarily-slow walkers to move.

However, there are some areas, like Barbs (18th), where it's better not to hang around alone at night, but they are easily recognizable by their raunchiness. In these areas, a lot depends on the way you behave and if you know how to adapt to the situation. If you know what you are looking for, speak some French and feel comfortable, there is no problem to stroll around a neighborhood like Barbes. Meanwhile, if you are easily identifiable as a rich tourist who's lost in the quartier, better stay away. Also some parts of the banlieue are better to avoid, but the banlieue is, except for a very few tourists spots (Fontainebleau, Versailles, Basilique de St. Denis) not a place where the normal tourist will go anyway.

The metro is relatively safe, but again, pickpockets do work in the stations and on the trains especially near tourist destinations. If you are carrying a bag make sure that it's closed tightly. If you have a wallet in your pocket keep a hand on it while entering or exiting the trains. Don't carry any more cash than you can afford to lose. Keep your cash on different parts of your body: some in your money belt, some in your purse/wallet, some in your shoe. Keep the contents of your purse/wallet to the bare essentials: money, one debit/credit card, I.D., emergency contact information, medical I.D. When you have to access your money belt, do so in private.

Recent news reports have highlighted new tactics by thieves, targeting taxis on their way into the city from Charles de Gaulle airport. Thieves wait for the taxi to be stopped in the usual traffic jam along the A1 highway and break windows to get to the passengers' bags. To avoid this, you may place your bags in the trunk of the taxi or take the very safe Air France shuttle.

Beware also of distraught-looking women and children asking if you can speak English. You'll be presented with a card or letter with a story explaining something like "My mother is in hospital in another country terminally ill. I'm stuck in Paris with no money and I need to visit her." Youll encounter them at the major train stations (such as Paris Nord) and also at most major tourist attractions. Even on the Champs-lyses.

Some Parisian restaurants, particularly in the tourist-laden Latin Quarter, make a living ripping off tourists who are hampered by a language barrier. When ordering, particularly if ordering a "menu" or prix-fixe meal, point to the actual menu item and ensure you repeat the price. Eye contact works wonders, as does a modicum of conversational French.

Be aware that there are hefty fines for littering in Paris. Be a litterbug at your own risk!

Smoking

Recent law enacted makes it strictly forbidden to smoke in closed areas (train stations, subway stations, buildings, and even restaurants and bars).

These listings are just some highlights of things that you really should see and do during your visit to Paris. While in Paris, you can pickup a good listing of almost everything to do here are from the weekly magazines 'Pariscope', the 'Officiel des spectacles', and the much hipper 'Zurban', listing all concerts, stage plays and museums. Available from many kiosks.

Landmarks

• Arc de Triomphe (8th). The grave of the unknown soldier is under the arch.
• Arnes de Lutece (5th). Built during the 1st and 2nd centuries, this amphitheater could seat up to 17,000 people, hosting gladiator fights as well as less bloody entertainment. Now a popular spot for playing boules, it is one of the only remaining ruins from the Gallo-Roman era in Paris, along with the Thermes (public baths) at Cluny.
• Assemble Nationale (7th). Seats the French Parliament, and was designed by Giardini and Gabriel in 1728.
• Catacombs (14th). Used to store the exhumed bones from the overflowing Paris cemetery.
• Chateau de Versailles (Versailles). On the outskirts of the city, the "must see" home of the Sun King Louis XIV.
• The Eiffel Tower (Tour Eiffel) (7th). One of the most famous landmarks in the world.
• Grand Arche de la Defense (La Defense). A modern office-building variant of the Arc de Triomphe. Has a viewing platform.
• Notre Dame Cathedral (4th). Impressive Gothic cathedral that was the inspiration for Victor Hugo's novel The Hunchback of Notre Dame. Saved in the 19th century by the best-known French architect Viollet-le-Duc.
• Pantheon (5th). Underneath, the final resting place for the great heroes of the French Republic; above, a marvellous view of the city.
• Pre-Lachaise Cemetery (20th). See the grave of Jim Morrison amongst many others.
  
• Sacr Coeur (18th). A church perched on top of the highest point in Paris. Behind the church is the artists' area, in front are spectacular views of the whole city.
  
• Sainte Chapelle (1st). Far more beautiful than the famous, but gloomy, Notre Dame. Make sure you go on a sunny day, as the highlight of this small chapel in Rayonnante Gothic style are the large stained-glass windows which soar up to near the vaulted ceiling. Also of interest is the extremely ornate lower level. If it happens to be rainy or cloudy, give Sainte Chappelle a miss, as the play of colored lights on the floor are well worth the wait for a sunnier day. 
  

Museums and galleries

All national museums are open free of charge on the first Sunday of the month; note, however, that this may mean long lines and crowded exhibits. Keep away from Paris during Easter week. It's really crowded. People have to queue up at the Eiffel tower for several hours.

Note that most museums and galleries are closed on either Monday or Tuesday - check ahead to avoid disappointment! - and most ticket counters close 30 - 45 minutes before final closing. Louvre museum is closed on Tuesdays while Orsay museum is closed on Mondays, good to know when setting visit plans.

• Le Muse de l'AP-HP, (5th). Paris's medical history.
• Le Musee des Arts Decoratifs, (1st). Showcasing eight centuries of French savoir faire.
• Carnavalet (3rd).  Museum of Paris history; exhibitions are permanent and free. Noted for its collection of French Revolution artifacts, such as David's famous painting Serment du Jeu de Paume. Has Proust's bed and the Dauphin's room in the prison tower diarama. Located in the Marais.
• Centre Georges Pompidou, (4th). The great museum of modern art, the building an attraction in itself.
• Cit des Sciences et de l%u2019Industrie - La Villette, (19th). Science museum for adults and children.
• Cluny, (5th). Paris's medieval museum, housed in a part Roman, part medieval building. Entry is now free of charge.
• Delacroix, National museum housed in the home of painter Eugene Delacroix.
• Jacquemart-Andre Museum, (8th). Private collection of French, Italian, Dutch masterpieces in a typical XIXth century mansion.
• Picasso Museum, (3rd). Contains the master's own collections.
• Les Invalides, (7th). Museum of arms and armor from the Middle Ages to today. Also contains the tombs of Napoleon Bonaparte and other French military figures.
• The Louvre, (1st). One of the finest museums in the world of art, art-history, and culture. Be prepared to walk as this is a fairly large facility and has many rooms to view.
• Muse de l'Orangerie, (1st). Impressionist and post-Impressionist paintings by Paul Cuzanne, Henri Matisse, Amedeo Modigliani, Claude Monet, Pablo Picasso, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Henri Rousseau, Chaim Soutine, Alfred Sisley.
• Muse d'Orsay, (7th). Home to the great artists of the 19th century (1848-1914).
• Muse Marmottan-Monet (16th).[rue Louis Boilly] Collection of works by Claude Monet, Berthe Morisot, Edgar Degas, douard Manet and Pierre-Auguste Renoir. "Impression Soleil Levant" by Monet is on display in this museum.
• Muse National de la Marine, (16th). From times of exploration to modern day vessels. Interesting but primarily in French.
• Rodin Museum, (7th). His personal collection and archives, in a charming hotel and sprawling garden.
• Muse en Herbe (1st and 16th). An art museum just for kids with hands-on exhibitions and workshops. 
  

Events

It seems like there's almost always something happening in Paris, with the possible exceptions of the school holidays in August and February, when about half of Parisians are to be found not in Paris, but in the Alps or the South of France respectively. The busiest season is probably the fall, from a week or so after la rentre scholaire or "back to school" to around Nol (Christmas) theatres, cinemas and concert halls book their fullest schedule of the year.

Even so, there are a couple of annual events in the winter, starting with a furniture and interior decorating trade fair called Maison & Object in January.

In February le Nouvel An Chinois (Chinese New Year) is celebrated in Paris as it is in every city with a significant Chinese population. There are parades in the 3rd and 4th arrondissements, and especially in Chinatown in the 13th south of Place d'Italie. Also in February is the Six Nations Rugby Tournament which brings together France, England, Ireland, Scotland, Wales and Italy.

The first of two Fashion weeks occurs in March: Spring Fashion Week, giving designers a platform to present women%u2019s Prt-Porter (ready to wear) collections for the following winter.

The French Tennis Open in which the world%u2019s top players battle it out on a clay court runs during two weeks starting on the last Sunday in May. By the time it's done in June, a whole range of festivities start up. Rendez-vous au Jardin is an open house for many Parisian gardens, giving you a chance to meet real Parisian gardeners and see their creations. The Fte de la Musique celebrates the summer solstice (21st June) with this city-wide free musical knees-up. Finally on the 30th of June is the Gay Pride parade, featuring probably the most sincere participation by the mayor's office of any such parade on the globe.

The French national holiday Bastille Day on the 14th of July celebrates the storming of the infamous Bastille during the July Revolution. Paris hosts several spectacular events that day of which the best known is the Bastille Parade which is held on the Champslyses at 10am and broadcast to pretty much the rest of Europe by television. The entire street will be crowded with spectators so arrive early. The Bastille Day Fireworks is an exceptional treat for travelers lucky enough to be in town on Bastille Day. The Office du Tourisme et des Congress de Paris recommends gathering in or around the champs du Mars, the gardens of the Eiffel Tower.

Also in July, Cinema en Plein Air is the annual outdoor cinema event that takes place at the Parc de la Villette, in the 9th on Europes largest inflatable screen. For most of the months of July and August, parts of both banks of the Seine are converted from expressway into an artificial beach for Paris Plage. Also in July the cycling race le Tour de France both starts and ends in Paris. Its route varies annually, however it always finishes on the last Sunday of July under the Arc de Triomphe.

On the last full weekend in August, a world-class music festival Rock en Seine draws international rock and pop stars to barges on the Seine near moored off of the 8th.

During mid-September DJs and (usually young) fans from across Europe converge on Paris for five or six days of dancing etc. culminating in the Techno parade - a parade whose route traces roughly from Pl. de Bastille to the Sorbonne, and around the same time the festival Jazz la Villette brings some of the biggest names in contemporary jazz from around the world.

The Nuit Blanche transforms most of central Paris into a moonlit theme-park for an artsy all-nighter on the first Saturday of October, and Fashion Week returns shortly thereafter showing off Women%u2019s Prat-a-Porter collections for the following summer; as we've noted winter collections are presented in March.

Movies

The Cinamas of Paris are (or at least should be) the envy of the movie-going world. Of course, like anywhere else you can see big budget first-run films from France and elsewhere. That though, is just the start. During any given week there are at least half-a-dozen film festivals going on, at which you can see the entire works of a given actor or director. Meanwhile there are some older cult films like say, What's new Pussycat or Casino Royal which you can enjoy pretty much any day you wish.

Many non-French movies are subtitled (called "version originale" or "v/o"). Still it's probably a good idea to be sure of a movie having subtitles if your French is not adequate to follow fast conversations.

There are any number of ways to find out what's playing, but the most commonly used guide is Pariscope, which you can find at newstands for %u20AC0.40. Meanwhile there are innumerable online guides which have information on "every" cinema in Paris.

Be aware that most of the movies shown in France are dubbed to French. Some shows may have French subtitles.

Tours

• Take a Bike or Walking Tour There are many different bike and walking tours in Paris which can happen in various languages (often English), you will surely be able to find the one that suits your time schedule and take in the culture that is Paris. Fat Tire Bike Tours is one of the more prominent, as it has been featured in the New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, Time, Newsweek and on CNN, the BBC and the Travel Channel. City Segway Tours, is another one that provides guided English-speaking Segway tours of Paris by day and night. They share an office with Fat Tire Bike Tours and Classic Walks of Paris. Classic Walks of Paris offers guided English-speaking walking tours of Paris. Themed walks include the Classic Walk, Da Vinci Code, Montmartre, Latin Quarter, World War II and French Revolution. They share an office with Fat Tire Bike Tours and City Segway Tours. Bike About Tours shows an insiders look at the 'city of light' with local, English-speaking guides who have lived in Paris for years. This small bike tour company gives 2 tours everyday at 10AM & 3PM from the Chalemagne statue in front of Notre Dame Cathedral. They stay away from the touristy Paris and show you the 'real' Paris, whatever that means.New Paris Free Walking Tour is run by Sandemans New Europe group. Offers free walking tours (tip only basis) of both Paris - the major sights - and Montmarte. Conducted by English speaking guides - mostly Americans - who live, work, or study in Paris. Aeon Tours (Paris Walking Tours), phone: 33 1 79 97 48 73. also focus on the Real Paris, from the historic sites near the city center, to the hidden courtyards of the Marais. Their daily tours include the Paris Essentials Tour, a Louvre Tour, Classic Marais Tour, Latin Quarter Tour, and a Private Tour of Paris.
• Context Paris, phone: 33 1 72 81 36 35 (info@contexttravel.com). open daily. An organization of scholars who lead in-depth walking tours of Paris's museums, architecture, and history. Walks include Gothic architecture, Musee D'Orsay, Belly of Paris (history of cuisine), market walks, bohemians of the 9th arrondissement, and thematic tours of the Louvre. from %u20AC35.
  
• In-line Skating. Every Friday night and Sunday afternoon (except when raining) hordes of in-line skaters take to the streets of Paris on a preplanned route, for about 3.5 hours. The trip is speedy; you will have to negotiate some real slopes. You must be good at skating if you want to join. Even if you don't participate, find a cafe near the route and watch them fly by.  edit
• See Paris from above. Check out the skyline from the roofs of Printemps, the Galeries Lafayette. There's also a hot air balloon at Parc Andro Citroon (south-western Paris). It doesn't operate on windy days, though.

Passes

One of the best value and most convenient ways to see the sights of Paris is with the Paris Museum Pass (previously known as Carte Musées et Monuments), a pre-paid entry card that allows entry into over 70 museums and monuments around Paris and comes in 2-day (%u20AC30), 4-day (%u20AC45) and 6-day (%u20AC60) denominations. The card allows you to jump otherwise sometimes lengthy queues and is available from participating museums, tourist offices, Fnac branches and all the main Métro and RER train stations. You will still need to pay to enter most special exhibitions.

Also consider the ParisPass another pre paid entry card queue jumping to 60 attractions including The Louvre, The Arc de Triomphe, as well as a river cruise and allows free metro & public transport travel. Also note a cheaper alternative with this new combined pass available is the Paris ComboPass and comes in Lite/Premium versions.

Paris is of course one of the great fashion centres of the Western world, up there with New York, London, and Milan, making it a great place to do clothes shopping. For the high end, the area around Place Vendome is known for it's jewellery shops as e.g. Cartier. All the way from Louvre to Place de la Concorde has a number of sophisticated shops. And of course you shouldn't miss Gallerie Lafayette and Le Printemps (close to the Operahouse), Samaritaine (opposite le Pont Neuf/now closed) and BV which you can find in the Le Marais area close to Hotel de Ville. The Le Marais area is the jewish area in Paris and most of the shops are open on Sundays. Le Marais is also known as the Gay area in Paris which means you can find a number of bars, cafes and clubs special for gay people.

Paris has 3 main flea-markets, located on the outskirts of the central city. The most famous of these is the Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen (Porte de Clignancourt) (Clignancourt Flea Market) , Métro: Porte de Clignancourt, in the 18th, a haven for lovers of antiques, second-hand goods and retro fashion.

• Chartres - the 12th century cathedral of Notre Dame at Chartres is one of the highlights of Gothic architecture
• Versailles - on the SW edge of Paris, the site of the Sun King Louis XIV's magnificent palace
• Saint Denis - on the northern edge of the metropolis, site of the Stade de France and St Denis Abbey, burial place of French royalty
• Chantilly - wonderful 17th century palace and gardens (and the birthplace of whipped cream)
• Giverny - the inspirational house and gardens of the Impressionist painter Claude Monet are but a day-trip away
• Disneyland Resort Paris - in the suburb of Marne-la-Vallée, to the east of Paris, from where it can be reached by car, train, or bus
• Parc Astérix - north of Paris