edit Myanmar Travel Guide

• Bagan - an archaeological zone with thousands of pagodas near the banks of the Ayeyarwady River
• Inle Lake - a large shallow lake good for beautiful boat trips, visiting floating villages inhabited by the Intha people, hiking, and also a source of excellent silk
• Kengtung - a town between Mong La (on the border with China) and Tachileik (on the border with Thailand) in the Golden Triangle, known for its tribes, Ann (black teeth people), Akha, trekking, etc
• Kyaiktiyo - a gold-gilded rock sitting atop a cliff and a major pilgrimage site
• Mount Popa - an extinct volcano regarded as the Mount Olympus of Myanmar, a green oasis high above the hot plains and an easy day trip from Bagan
• Mrauk U - former capital of the Rakhine kingdom
• Ngapali - beach resort in western Rakhine State, spilling into the Bay of Bengal'
• Pyay - a town on the Ayeyarwady River midway between Yangon and Bagan, known for its archological site "Sri Kittara", the ancient Pyu capital from 2 to 9 AD

Visa Requirements

Visa-free entry is possible at some border crossings - however you must then exit Myanmar via the same border crossing, usually (but not always) on the same day that you enter, and fees apply (normally US$10).

Otherwise, visas must be obtained in advance by all visitors except ASEAN and People's Republic of China nationals. Because of the pro-democracy protests and the subsequent crackdown, there are reports that it takes longer to get visas and that prospective travelers need to prove that they are not connected with the press (proof of employment is almost always required). In some cases a detailed itinerary may also be required.

A "Visa on Arrival" service requiring an advance on-line application by means of a government-operated website was introduced in 2004 but then discontinued the following year; there have been no indications that it might be made available again in the near future. Agencies have from time to time offered similar services but these have proved to be problematic and highly unreliable.

Customs and Immigration

By plane

The most popular place to get a flight to Myanmar is Bangkok, in neighbouring Thailand.

By land

Hopping across the Thai border into Myanmar's border towns is easy, but crossing into or out of Myanmar proper by land varies between difficult and impossible.

Thailand:

• Tachileik / Mae Sai - foreigners can access this crossing from either side, and enter and/or exit either country here. As of March 2007, travel beyond Kengtung to the rest of Myanmar is not possible, even with a valid tourist visa. Travelers wishing to exit Myanmar at Tachileik can only do so with a permit from the MTT office in Yangon.

• Myawaddy / Mae Sot - foreigners can only access this crossing from the Thai side; neither onward travel into Myanmar (ie beyond the border town) nor overnight stays are possible. No visa needed; instead there's an entry stamp fee - US$10 if paid with US$ notes, more (500 baht) if paid with Thai currency.

• Three Pagodas Pass (Payathonzu / Sangkhlaburi) - foreigners can only access this crossing from the Thai side; onward travel into Myanmar (ie beyond the border town) is not possible; entry/exit stamps are NOT issued here, and foreigners passports are held at the Myanmar checkpoint, where a fee is levied - US$10 if paid with US$ notes, more (500 baht) if paid with Thai currency.

• Kawthoung / Ranong - foreigners can access this crossing from either side, and enter and/or exit either country here. If entering without a visa, maximum stay is 3 days / 2 nights, travel beyond Kawthoung is not permitted, and there's an entry stamp fee - US$10 if paid with US$ notes, more (500 baht) if paid with Thai currency. As of March 2007, the only way to continue onward from here appears to be by plane to Mergui or Yangon, although there have previously been ferries on these routes as well.

China - foreigners can enter Myanmar via Ruili (in Yunnan), although a permit (as well as a visa) and a guide are needed. Crossing in the opposite direction is more difficult to arrange and details are uncertain.

India - a land border crossing exists between India and Myanmar at Moreh/Tamu. It is uncertain whether foreigners can cross into or out of Myanmar at this crossing. At the least, a foreign (a person who is neither a citizen of India nor a citizen of Myanmar) will need to get a permit to visit the Indian state of Manipur (from India), and a permit to enter or leave Myanmar at Tamu (from Myanmar Travels and Tours. Travellers may also need a permit to travel from Tamu to Kalewa (there are unconfirmed reports that this is no longer required). While there have been confirmed reports of some travellers crossing into Myanmar from India, with their own transport as well as with permits arranged in advance, the general consensus is that obtaining all the necessary permits is very hard.

Bangladesh / Laos - it is not currently feasible to independently cross the borders between Myanmar and Bangladesh or Laos.

Like most of Southeast Asia's countries, Myanmar's people and history is a glorious mishmash of settlers and invaders from all fronts. The Mon and the Pyu are thought to have come from India, while the now dominant Bamar (Burmese) migrated through Tibet and, by 849, had founded a powerful kingdom centered on Pagan. For the next millennium, the Burmese empire grew through conquests of Thailand (Ayutthaya) and India (Manipur), and shrank under attacks from China and internal rebellions.

Eventually, Britain conquered Burma over a period of 62 years (1824-1886) and incorporated it into its Indian Empire. It was administered as a province of India until 1937 when it became a separate self-governing colony. During the Second World War, Burma was a major battleground as the Allies fought the Japanese for dominance over Asia. The Burma Road was built to get supplies to China. Large parts of Western Burma, particularly the hilly areas bordering India and the city of Mandalay were severely damaged during the war. Independence from the Commonwealth under the name Union of Burma was attained in 1948.

General Ne Win dominated the government from 1962 to 1988, first as military ruler, then as self-appointed president, and later as political kingpin. Pro-democracy demonstrations in 1988 were violently crushed, with general Saw Maung taking over in a coup and installing the State Law and Order Restoration Council (SLORC) to rule the country, now renamed Myanmar.

Multiparty legislative elections were held in 1990, with the main opposition party - the National League for Democracy (NLD) - winning a landslide victory (392 of 489 seats). But SLORC refused to hand over power, instead placing NLD leader and Nobel Peace Prize recipient Aung San Suu Kyi under house arrest, where she remains to this day.

Today Myanmar, a resource-rich country, suffers from pervasive government controls, inefficient economic policies, and rural poverty. The junta took steps in the early 1990s to liberalize the economy after decades of failure under the "Burmese Way to Socialism," but those efforts stalled, and some of the liberalization measures were rescinded. Most overseas development assistance ceased after the junta began to suppress the democracy movement in 1988 and subsequently refused to honor the results of the 1990 legislative elections. In response to the government's attack in May 2003 on Aung San Suu Kyi and her convoy, the US imposed new economic sanctions against Myanmar - including bans on imports of products from Myanmar and on provision of financial services by US persons.

The summer of 2007 was marked by demonstrations against the military government which were again brutally suppressed. The demonstrations started in August, apparently in an uncoordinated manner, as a protest against a stiff hike in the price of gasoline, but morphed into a more serious challenge to the government after three monks were beaten at a protest march in the town of Pakokku. The monks demanded an apology but none was forthcoming and soon processions of monks with begging bowls held upside down filled many cities (including Sittwe, Mandalay, and Yangon). Yangon, particularly the area around Sule Pagoda in the downtown area, became the center of these protests. While the monks marched, and many ordinary citizens came out in support of the monks, the world watched as pictures, videos, and blogs flooded the Internet. However, the government soon suppressed the protests by firing on crowds, arresting monks, closing monasteries, and shutting down all Internet communications with the rest of the world.

Because of the brutal suppression of these protests, many countries, lead by the United States, Australia, and the United Kingdom have imposed new sanctions on the Myanmar government, some targeting the families and finances of the military leaders. The UN is working on the government to open talks with pro-democracy leader Aung San Suu Kyi and a first round of talks has already taken place.

Visitors must plan carefully and bring enough cash with them to cover their entire visit, as there's no easy way to get more without leaving the country. However in an emergency, some hotels in Yangon will do a cash advance on a credit card through Singapore. The hotel requires a passport and charges 7%.

Never exchange money in a bank or at the airport as the rates are excruciatingly uncompetitive: the official rate "floats" around a farcical 6 (yes, six) kyat to the US dollar [5]. In reality, the true (so-called "black market") exchange rate fluctuates considerably around both sides of the 1000 kyat to the US$ mark (1230 Kyat to the US$ in February 2008 in Yangon, slightly less in Mandalay), and dissident newspaper The Irrawaddy (not available in the country) is a good source for recent exchange rates. Exchanging money on the black market is illegal in theory, but common in practice and easy to do in markets, jewelry shops, travel agents, etc.

The currency of choice in Myanmar is the US$ though it is possible to exchange euros in Yangon and Mandalay. Outside Yangon and Mandalay, it may be hard, if not impossible, to exchange anything other than the US$.

Foreign currency (including US$) must be in good condition. Torn bills are virtually impossible to change, and the same sometimes applies to notes which have been written on, otherwise marked, or even repeatedly folded. When getting currency from a bank to take to Myanmar, request new notes. Some US$100 bills with certain serial number prefixes (especially "CB") are sometimes regarded as suspect, so it may be better to take US$50 or smaller denominations.

It is best to bring a mix of US$ denominations when visiting Myanmar. A few $100 bills, a few $50 bills, a few $20 bills, and a few $1, $5, and $10 bills. Money changers will usually not change 20, 10, 5, and 1 dollar bills, but they are useful to pay for entry fees and transportation.

Daily Expense

It's quite possible to be comfortable on less than US$20/day. Foreigners will likely be charged fees, including video camera, digital camera, entrance, parking, and zone fees.

Banking

Currency

Myanmar's currency is the kyat (abbreviated K), pronounced "zhet". Pya are coins, and are rarely seen. Foreign travelers are required to pay in US$ for hotels, tourist attractions, rail and air tickets, ferry travel, and sometimes for bus tickets as well, and are technically required to pay in kyat for most other transactions (trishaws, pickups, tips, food, etc.). According to the law, it is illegal for a Myanmar citizen to accept (or hold) dollars without a license but this law is mostly ignored and dollars are generally accepted. Never insist though because it may be dangerous for the receiver. FECs are still legal tender but are rarely seen.

Kyat cannot be exchanged abroad. Bring US$ cash, and dispose of remaining kyat before leaving.

Credit Cards

Due to EU and US sanctions, credit cards are rarely accepted in Myanmar. There are places where cash can be obtained with a credit card, however the rates are extremely uncompetitive (with premiums certainly no lower than around 7%, and with quotes of 30% and more frequently reported). An exceptionally small minority of up-market hotels accept credit card payments (and will surcharge accordingly).

Some ATMs can be found in large cities, but these are purely for locals and cannot be used for withdrawing money.

Travelers Checks

Travellers cheques are not accepted in Myanmar. The only exception might be some especially shady money changer - but be prepared to pay an astronomical commission (30% is not uncommon).

Tax

Tipping

Shopping

• Precious stones Myanmar is a significant miner of jade, rubies, and sapphire (the granting of a license to the French over the ruby mines in Mogok were one of the causes leading to the Third Burmese War) and these can be obtained at a fraction of what it would cost in the West. Be warned, however, that there are a lot of fakes for sale amongst the genuine stuff and, unless you know your gems, buy from an official government store or risk being cheated. Bogoyoke Aung San Market in Yangon has many licensed shops and is generally as safe place for the purchase of these stones.
• Lacquerware A popular purchase in Myanmar is lacquerware, which is made into bowls, cups, vases, tables and various items, and is available almost anywhere. Beware of fraudulent lacquerware, though, which is poorly made, but looks authentic. (As a general rule, the stiffer the lacquer, the poorer the quality and the more you can bend and twist it, the finer the quality.)
• Tapestries Known as kalaga, or shwe chi doe, there is a long tradition of weaving tapestries in Burma. Burmese tapestries are decorated with gold and silver thread and sequins and usually depict tales from the Buddhist scriptures (the jatakas) or other non-secular objects from Burmese Buddhism (mythical animals, the hintha and the kalong are also popular subjects). The tapestry tradition is dying out but many are made for tourists and are available in Mandalay and Yangon. Burmese tapestries don't last so be warned if someone tries to sell you an antique shwe chi doe!
• Antiques Myanmar is probably the last unspoiled market for antiques and, with a good eye, it is easy to pick up bargains there. Old Raj coins are the most popular (and have little value except as souvenirs) but everything ranging from Ming china to Portuguese furniture (in Moulmein) can be found. Unfortunately, the Burmese antique sellers are becoming increasingly sophisticated and, increasingly, the bargains were probably made the day before in the shop-owners backyard! It is against the law to export religious antiques (manuscripts, Buddhas, etc.)
• Textiles Textiles in Myanmar are stunning. Each region and each ethnic group has its own style. Chin fabrics are particularly stunning. They are handwoven in intricate geometric patterns, often in deep reds and mossy greens and white. They can be quite pricy, perhaps US$20 for the cloth to make a longyi (sarong).

Costs

Cloudy, rainy, hot, humid summers (southwest monsoon, June to September). Less cloudy, scant rainfall, mild temperatures, lower humidity during winter (northeast monsoon, December to April).

Holidays and Celebrations

Language

The official language of Myanmar is Burmese (known by the government as Myanmar). A majority of Burmese pronunciation is derived from the ancient language of Pali (at the time of the Buddha), but the language is a Sino-Tibetan language related to Chinese and hence tonal (word pitch matters) and analytic (most words are one syllable long).

Myanmar is a former British colony, and as a result - and because English is still being taught in primary schools - some Burmese understand at least some rudimentary English.

Burmese use the Burmese script, based on the ancient Pali script. Bilingual signs (English and Burmese) are available in most tourist spots. Numbers often are also written in Burmese script.

Burmese food is a blend of Chinese, Indian and Mon influences. Rice is at the core of most Burmese food, and good vegetarian food is widely available. Burmese food is often extremely pungent. Food is inexpensive at most restaurants (around 500-1500 kyat), but there are many upscale restaurants in Yangon and Mandalay for upmarket food.

Types of Restaurants

Types of Food

Etiquette

The people cover their arms and legs; they are also courteous and considerate and low-key dress is highly appreciated, particularly in temples and monasteries (of which there are thousands). Miniskirts, shorts and sleeveless shirts are not allowed in consecrated areas, where you also have to remove your shoes, so prefer loafers and flip-flops that can slip on & off at the entrance -- Myanmar has some of the most stunning temples in Asia and you will be tempted to visit more than you think.

Both men and women wear a longyi, a sort of sarong that you can purchase everywhere. They are wrapped in different ways for men and women, so find out how to tie yours. If you turn up at a temple in inappropriate dress, you can always rent a longyi for a nominal fee.

Also avoid t-shirts with images of Buddhas or Buddhist imagery, which is considered highly disrespectful. Folks are forgiving about it, but why look like a bigger fool than necessary?

Give generously at temples and monasteries but women are not allowed into some of the more sacred areas -- actually the restriction should only cover women in menstruation, but since it would be rude to ask and unthinkable to verify, they're stuck with having to keep all ladies out.

You can also purchase little squares of gold leaf to apply to consecrated statues.

When praying or paying respects, it is important to ensure that the *soles* of your feet do not point towards the Buddha or anyone else. However, statues are arranged so that won't happen unless you get acrobatic about it. Do not point to images of Buddha. Tuck your feet underneath you when kneeling at shrines and temples.

Tourists of Caucasian descent are commonly referred to as bo, which translates "leader", as a sign of respect. Address elders with U (pronounced "oo", as in soon) or "Uncle" for men, and Daw or "Auntie" for women.

Drinks

Tap water in Myanmar is not safe to drink, likewise ice may be contaminated. Bottled water is readily available at many tourist sites.

Tea(Yenwejan) is usually provided free at restaurant tables. While not flavourful, it is boiled water, and so safe to drink (do not drink plain water - even in restaurants - unless it is bottled water). Be sure to order it with Laphet thote (Customary/Good combination).

Alcohol is frowned upon by conservative Buddhists, Hindus, and Muslims, but consumed widely, mostly among men. Myanmar Beer (lager) is most popular in the country. Other variants, including Mandalay Beer exist. However, many of such companies are government-owned and/or have links to the drug trade. Toddy juice (ta-YEI) is popular in central Myanmar, and is made from fermented palm sugar. An alcoholic drink popular in the Shan State is Shwe le maw, and is reportedly very strong. It is also possible to buy full strength Beer Chang imported from Thailand; exports to most countries are not nearly as strong.

Beware of alcoholic drinks served in the far northern states. The locals refer to it as alcohol which does not burn when lit, and it is widely suspected to be an opiate concoction rather than a fermented beverage.

Work in Myanmar for foreigners is hard to come by. NGOs and other aid groups do work in the capital and the remote areas of Myanmar, but because of the unstable political situation and the government's edicts, it is difficult to carry out tasks. In addition, several organisations have pulled out of Myanmar, after complaints of the government's continual probes. Foreign companies, mainly based in Singapore, Thailand, and China do operate, but on a small scale. Teaching English is feasible in the city's private schools, but is off-limits in the public education system.

Phones

International phone calls can be arranged at the Central Telephone & Telegraph Office at the corner of Ponsodan and Mahabandoola Streets in Yangon. International Direct Dial calls are also available at most hotels and at many public call offices (often a phone in a shop), but they are expensive, e.g. a call to the US costs $6 to $7/min.

Internet

Internet is now widely and cheaply available in Yangon, Mandalay, and Bagan, but more limited elsewhere. However access is very slow and many sites are inaccessible. Rates are around 1000 kyat/hour in Yangon and 2000-5000 kyat/hour elsewhere.

Webmail: all free webmail providers are blocked, however many Internet cafés circumvent this - jot down the workaround in case it's still unknown in the next café you visit. If one Internet café can't connect you, the next one probably will the next day.

As of May 2006, the following workarounds worked:

• Gmail - use https://mail.google.com - secure access doesn't seem to have been blocked. If blocked, bypass it through www.polysolve.com.

• Yahoo - use http://wap.oa.yahoo.com - the WAP (mobile phone) gateway, which gets you the basic interface.

Myanmar has two ISPs, MPT and Bagan. Proxy sites are blocked by MPT, but may work with the Bagan ISP.

Tap water is not safe, nor is ice. Always buy bottled water and also make sure that it is legitmately bottled water (there are fakes). When in doubt, shop at a City Mart, as it is the closest thing to a westernized grocery store. Tropical diseases such as dengue fever, Japanese encephalitis and malaria are endemic. Drug-resistant strains of malaria and tuberculosis are common in many areas. Hepatitis vaccinations are highly recommended. At restaurants, always use a new pair of chopsticks, although chopsticks generally are not used. Instead, Burmese use Western utensils or, if very traditional, eat with their hands.

Follow the old rule "if you can't fry it, stir it, peel it or boil it - then forget about it".

Other Safety Tips

Various insurgent groups continue to operate in the Shan, Mon, Chin, and Karen States of Myanmar, along the Thai and Chinese borders. Travel to these regions is generally not permitted by the Myanmar government without a permit. In addition, travel to Kayah State and Rakhine State is restricted heavily, due to human rights issues and ongoing conflicts with rebel groups. As a general rule, divisions (Yangon, Bago, Ayeyarwady, Sagaing, Taninthayi, Mandalay, Magwe) are permitted tourist areas.

Myanmar has been subject to rule by a harsh military junta for much of the past 40 years, and has a reputation abroad for brutally crushing political dissent, as in the case of the frequent house arrests of democracy campaigner Aung San Suu Kyi. When in Myanmar, abstain from political activities and don't insult the government, or at least not when anyone from the government is listening.

Do not try to open a political discussion with a recent acquaintance. People will talk to you after they know you well enough. Also, realize that many phone lines are tapped. As a foreigner, you are safe. The worst thing the government would do to you is expel you. But if you somehow reveal confidential information about the political activities of a local, that local could be in real trouble in Myanmar's notorious jails.

Corrupt Officials

Myanmar is one of the world's most corrupt countries. Officials and other government servants may discreetly ask you for a bribe, or invent issues (missing forms, closed offices, etc) in order to get you to suggest one. Pretending not to understand or asking to speak to a superior may work. However, visitors of Caucasian descent are rarely targeted, while those of Asian descent (including South Asians and East Asians) may be forced to give bribes, but the brunt of the problem hits normal Burmese.

Crime

Myanmar is very safe for the visitor. You may have your passport checked once or twice but that's all. In the areas you'll see, the chance of you being a victim of crime is remote. You'll never get anywhere near the drug scene, so don't worry about it. Head for Bagan (aka Pagan): a field of 500 stupas as impressive as the pyramids of Egpyt.

Since 2005, Yangon and Mandalay have seen a negligible rise in street robberies. There were also bombings (26Apr05/Mandalay; 7May, 21Oct & 5Dec 05/Yangon; and 2 Jan 06/Bago. The government blames Western secret services and Western secret services blame the government; both blame insurgents too.

As said, Burmese people are incredibly hospitable. Unlike most other countries hosting tourists, they are happy to see foreign faces. They are generally honest and kind.

Emergency

Police

Fire Department

Hospitals

Gays and lesbians

Illicit drugs and prostitution

Smoking

Myanmar's infrastructure is in poor shape. As a result of the political situation, Myanmar is subject to trade sanctions from much of the western world, and this can cause problems for unwary travellers. Travel to certain regions is prohibited; for others, special permits must be obtained, and a guide/interpreter/minder may be mandatory - although whether these "guides" accompany you to look after you, or to keep you from going to places the government doesn't want you to see, is moot.

Restricted Areas

Much of Myanmar is closed to foreign travelers, and many land routes to far-flung areas are also closed (for example, to Mrauk U, Kalewa, Putao, Kengtung). Thus, while travelers can travel freely in the Bamar majority Burmese heartland, travel tends to be restricted or circumscribed in other places. In theory, any tourist can apply for a permit to visit any restricted area or to travel on any restricted land route. In practice, it is unlikely that any such permit will be issued in a reasonable amount of time, or at all. Permit requests can be made locally in some cases (for example, requests for the land route to Kalewa can be made in Shwebo) but, in most cases, the request has to be made in Yangon. Requests to visit restricted areas must be made at the MTT (Myanmar Travel and Tours) office in Yangon (Number 77-91, Sule Pagoda Road, Yangon, [1]). Applications for local permits can often be made at a local MTT office or at a police station. As of writing this, local permits are available only for the following places/routes:

• Shwebo - Kalewa. A permit is necessary if going by road. It is uncertain whether one is required if going by boat.
• Kengtung - Tachilek. This used to be straightforward but the availability is now uncertain.
• Myitkyina - Indawgyi Lake. Easily available in Myitkyina but must travel with a guide. Your hotel or a local tour company can arrange this for you.
• Mrauk U Chin village tours. Easily available in Mrauk U but must visit with a guide. Your hotel or a local tour company can arrange this for you.

All other permits must be obtained in Yangon.

By plane

State-run Myanma Airways (UB) - not to be confused with Myanmar Airways International (8M) "MIA" - is known for its poor safety record. AirMandalay [2], Air Bagan [3] and Yangon Airways offer good, regular services between the key tourist centers for reasonable prices - US$40-80. These tickets are easy to buy in hotels and travel agencies in all major cities in Myanmar.

By train

Myanmar has an extensive but ancient rail network. Trains are slow, often delayed, and charge exorbitant prices from foreign travelers making buses a cheaper and faster alternative. Still, a journey on a train is a great way to see the country and meet people. The rail journey from Mandalay, up switchbacks and hairpin bends to Pwin U Lwin, and then across the mountains and the famous bridge at Gokteik, is one of the great railway journeys of the world. Trains in lower Mandalay (Yangon - Pathein and Yangon Mawlymaing) are little communities of their own with hawkers selling everything imaginable. Sleepers are available on many overnight express trains, although, in the high season, you may want to reserve a few days in advance (the Yangon-Mandalay trains now run in the daytime only, apparently because the government does not want trains passing Pyinmana at night). Food service is available on the express up and the express down between Yangon and Mandalay as well as on the Yangon - Mawlymaing run.

Except for the new bridge and rail line that connects Mawlymaing to points on the western side of the Salween River, the rail network is exactly the way it was in British times. The most used line is the 325km line from Yangon to Mandalay with several trains a day (this is also the only double line in Myanmar), and the only one that is competitive in time with buses (note that the fastest trains take 15 hours for the 385km run, an effective rate of 25km/hour!). A second line connects Yangon with Pyay (9 hours for the 175km journey!) with a branch heading off into the delta region town of Pathein. These tracks, the earliest constructed are in poor shape. With the construction of the bridge across the Salween, it is now possible to go by train from Yangon to Mawlymaing (8 hours for the 200km journey) and on to Ye (Ye is closed to foreign travelers). From Mandalay, trains continue on to Myitkyina in Kachin State (350km in 24hours) and to Lashio. There are also rail connections between Yangon-Bagan and Mandalay-Bagan, but bus or ferry are better alternatives (The 175km from Mandalay to Bagan takes 10hrs).

By boat

There is also a large river ferry network. Both are to a large extent run by the government, although there are now some private ferry services. The trip from Mandalay to Bagan takes the better part of a day, from Bagan to Yangon is several days.

By bus

Buses of all types ply the roads of Myanmar. Luxury (relatively speaking) buses do the Mandalay-Yangon run while lesser vehicles can get travelers to other places. Fares are reasonable and in Kyat and, for the budget traveler, there is no other option because of the high price of train tickets for foreign nationals. Many long distance buses assign seats so it is best to book seats at least a day in advance. Because the roads are bad, avoid the rear of the bus and try to sit as far up front as you can get. Long distance buses also have an extra jump seat that blocks the aisle and, because it is not well secured to the chassis, can be uncomfortable (which also means that there is no such thing as a side seat where taller travelers can thrust their legs). A window near the front of the bus is always the best option.

By pickup/collectivo

Old Toyota pickup trucks run everywhere in Myanmar, inexpensively ferrying men, women, children, and monks from one place to another. The rear of the truck is converted into a canvas covered sitting area with three benches, one on each side and one running along the center of the truck (some smaller trucks have only two rows), and the running board is lowered and fixed into place providing room for six or more people to stand on (holding on to the truck frame). Pickups are ubiquitous in Myanmar and every town has a central point somewhere from where they depart to places both near and far. Travelers who go off the beaten track will find them indispensable because often the only alternative is an expensive taxi or private car.

The basics of pickups are fairly straightforward, wait till it is reasonably full before heading out. On well traveled routes (Mandalay - Pyin U Lwin, for example), they fill up quickly and the journey is quick. On less well-traveled routes (Bhamo-Katha, for example), passengers arrive (early, usually around 6am), mark their place, and then hang around drinking tea and chatting until the truck fills up. When the pickup does get moving, it may linger or go out of its way in the hope of picking up more passengers. The inside of a pickup can be hot and uncomfortable - passengers, packed in like sardines, face away from the windows (which are tiny) and into the truck - and standing on the running board can be tiring and tough on the arms! On the other hand, the window side seat next to the driver is very comfortable and well worth the little extra that you have to pay, so it is best to go early and reserve that seat.

By car

You can hire a private car and driver at reasonable rates to tour independently. The licensed guides at Schwedagon Paya in Yangon can arrange to have a driver with a car meet you at your hotel.But,it is safe to arrange a car through a travel agency;the service fee thay charge is not too small though. You can "test" the driver and the car by driving around the city for 10 or 15 minutes. If you are satisfied, a departure date and time and per diem rates (inclusive of petrol) can be negotiated. Some guides are willing to travel with you to serve as interpreters.

Road travel to tourist destinations is generally safe, although some roads may be rough. Highways are often 2-lane, and cars often pass one another recklessly. Allow two days to drive from Yangon to Bagan in fair weather. Pyay provides a good midway stopover point. Allow a day to drive from Bagan to Inle Lake.

In cities, it is also considered illegal to cross an amber light without stopping. Despite having crossed 3/4 of the way, you will be required to stop in the middle of the road and make your way back in reverse!

Accidents and fatalities are common. Night-time road travel is not recommended, and medical facilities are extraordinarily limited in rural areas. At government hospitals, bribes may be required for expedient services. Make sure needles are new or carry your own. HIV is a major problem in Myamnar.

By bike

In Yangon, riding motorcycles and bicycles is illegal. Mandalay's streets, on the other hand, are filled with both.

On foot

Cars and pedestrians may not follow the established rules, and crossing the road can be difficult.