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edit Kenya Travel Guide

Lions and Giraffes, and Elephants Oh My! Kenya stands out as one of the most tourist friendly places in East Africa and one of the greatest places in the world to view African wildlife and take in Sawhili culture.

edit Highlights

  • Hells Gate National Park Only a stones throw out of Nairobi, this National Park is what inspired the setting for Disney's hit movie "The Lion King," so make sure you check out "Pride Rock"
  • Migration of The Wildabeast Can be seen around July every year in Masi Mara National Park, never before have you seen so many grazing animals on the move, and where the grazers go the predators certainly follow...
  • Mt. Kenya in the shadow of its big brother Mt. Kilimajaro, Mt. Kenya although slightly lower is much less tracked and offers hikers a much less expensive and more rustic Mountain climbing experience

edit Getting Here

Visa Requirements

Customs and Immigration

By plane

Kenya Airways (KQ) is the national airline. KQ has extensive regional (South Africa, Zimbabwe, Egypt, Entebbe, etc) & international connections (Dubai, London, Amsterdam, Mumbai, etc). It is also a SkyTeam associate member.

Kenya has three International airports, these are:

  • Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (NBO) in Nairobi. Approximately twenty minutes from the main business district.
  • Moi International Airport Mombasa.
  • Eldoret International Airport (Local flights and Cargo Only).

Jomo Kenyatta is the primary arrival point for visitors flying into Kenya. There are excellent flight connections provided by KQ to major tourist destinations like Mombasa, Kisumu & Malindi.

By car

The roads may be poor but all neighbouring countries can be accessed including Ethiopia is via the border town of Moyale, Uganda via Busia, Tanzania via Namanga.

Beware of overland routes coming through the northern deserts as these are essentially lawless regions. Most vehicles traveling through the area travel via armed convoy.

By boat

This is limited to: - Lake Victoria e.g. Mwanza in Tanzania to Kisumu in Kenya - Coastal area e.g. Mombasa-Zanzibar cruises

By bus

Regular bus services operate between:

Nairobi (Kenya) & Arusha (Tanzania); Nairobi (Kenya) & Kampala (Uganda) - This service is run by Akamba Bus; Mombasa (Kenya) & Dar-es-Salaam (Tanzania); Kisumu (Kenya) & Kampala (Uganda);

edit History

edit Government

edit Money

Economy

Banking

Currency

Credit Cards

Tax

Tipping

Shopping

Kenya is famous for many handicrafts, which are often the 'signature' of a particular tribe or region. Look for Kisii stone (soap stone) carvings, Maasai jewelry, Mkonde wood carvings, Lamu chairs and batiks. The largest selection of handicrafts can probably be found at the Maasai Market in downtown Nairobi on Tuesdays, although expect plenty of hassling and hard bargaining.If one does not wish to go to the downtown Maasai market there is always the Village Market in Gigiri (Close to Unep Headquarters) where a small number of the vendors go once a week to sell their ware. This is usually at a higher price because Gigiri is a plush suburb so they price their goods accordingly. There is also a fine selection of stores selling craft goods in Mombasa, where the atmosphere is somewhat more relaxed. However the best prices can be found by buying direct from the artisans at their villages out in the countryside.

Apart from the typical souvenirs like wood carvings it may be a good idea to buy one of the large books with photos of wildlife, nature, or culture.

Do listen & buy some local Kenyan music. One of the most popular songs is "Jambo Bwana" by Teddy Kalanda Harrison (lyrics), which almost all tourist will be exposed to at some point during their stay. Reggae is also quite a frequent feature of matatu journeys.

Costs

edit Geography

edit Weather And Climate

edit Culture

Holidays and Celebrations

Language

English is the official language, and is spoken in the major cities as well as by those connected to the tourist industry. Outside of the large cities, Kiswahili (otherwise known as Swahili) is the major language, and a few words of this language will go a long way. Tribal languages, such as Maa spoken by the Maasai, are commonplace in more remote areas, however you will usually be able to find a local who can speak at least broken Kiswahili – although in such areas a guide will be indispensable.

Common Kiswahili Phrases:

Jambo – Hello (this is pidgin Kiswahili – expect to be greeted with this if you look like a tourist; except occasionally in Nairobi, Kenyans never say Jambo to each other, although may sometimes use the more grammatically pure "Hujambo?", to which the correct response is "Sijambo.")

Habari gani? – How are you? (lit. "Have you any news?")

Mzuri sana – Fine, thank you (lit. "[I am] very good" – strictly speaking this should be Nzuri sana which would literally mean "[I have] very good [news]"; however the Mzuri form is probably more common now)

Tafadhali – Please

Asante sana – Thank you very much

Asante hapana - No thank you

Watcha - Stop it!

Karibu – You're welcome / Welcome to ...

Jina langu ni Nancy – My name is Nancy

Shilingi ngapi? – How much does it cost? (lit. "How many Shillings?")

Kwa heri – Goodbye

Pole pole (pronounced pol-ay pol-ay) – Slowly, slowly

Hakuna matata – No problem (lit. "There are no problems" – expect to hear this phrase most frequently in the easygoing coastal towns, along with pole pole)

edit Food

Nairobi has some of the finest eating establishments in Africa. Many different cuisines and types of restaurants are available, from fast food to fancy. Many five star hotels have attached fine restaurants, which are expensive but worth it. Many restaurants can be found downtown, and in the areas of Westlands and Hurlingham. Amongst the many cuisines available are Brazilian, Chinese, Thai, Japanese, German and French restaurants. Fast Food restaurants, mostly by South African Chains (Steers, Nandos) are common in the larger urban areas.

Types of Restaurants

  • The Carnivore A meal here is a must. One of the few places in the world you can eat real game animals such as a zebra.
  • Mandhari (Nairobi Serena in Uhuru Park) is a 5-star restaurant
  • Haandi (The Mall in Westlands) - Indian
  • Trattoria (CBD)- Italian
  • Medittarraneo(at the Junction Mall on Ngong Road)-Italian
  • Pampas Churrascaria(In Panari Center on Mombasa Road)-Brazilian
  • Alan Bobbe's Bistro(On Riverside Road)-French
  • Slims(Lenana Rd)- American Bar/Grill/Steakhouse(excellent steaks)
  • '"Furusato'" (Westlands) -- Perhaps the best sushi in Africa
  • '"Tamambo'" (The Mall in Westalnds) -- very good international cuisine
  • '"Siam Thai'" (Unga House Westlands) -- top notch Thai cuisine
  • '"Kudeta'" (Bogani Road, Langata) -- The best ribs in Nairobi and some of the best seafood too -- but may be closed and road can be dangerous due to carjacking
  • Porini (Mombasa) - Seychellois
  • K'osewe's (Nairobi Central Business District) - Serves many traditional Kenyan meals

Types of Food

Etiquette

Drinks (Alcoholic)

Kenyan beer is among the best you will ever taste. There is one major brewer whose flagship brand is Tusker Lager. Also try the Tusker Malt Lager. Another good lager beer is White Cap Lager. Imported Beers are available in supermarkets and High end hotels, but the prices are usually high. But imported Tanzanian beer like Kilimanjaro and Safari tend to be cheaper than even Tusker. In locals bars do not expect to pay more than around 75 Ksh (~$1) for a double beer, anything more is a tourist rip-off. Many locals still cannot afford Tusker so it is not as popular in Kenya as people think. Locals tend to drink even cheaper beers like Senator, which is in a small red bottle and has an abnormally high alcohol content. It certainly tastes interesting. In some smaller towns Allsopps beer is available - It is cheaper than Tusker and is arguably nicer. Also, do NOT buy in local gas stations or bars small plastic pouches of alcohol that were popular among the poorest citizens till their mass production ceased. They are sometimes not even filled with alcohol but with lacquer thinner or gasoline. The Kenyan government also passed a law criminalising their sale and production, so they should be avoided at all costs.

Imported and local wines and spirits are widely available, and it is advisable to avoid local brews such as "changaa" and "busaa", which are illegal, unhygenically brewed and whose consumption has led to deaths on different occasions of drinkers.

Drinks (Non-Alcoholic)

There is an excellent selection of soft drinks especially from the Coca Cola stable but try the "Tangawizi" brand of ginger ale.

If you are in Nairobi, visit the "Diamond Plaza" in Highridge where you will get a range of freshly squeezed juices including Tangerine, Sugarcane & Mango. In addition, most large malls in Nairobi and Mombasa have Juice Bars with a wide array of juices on offer.

edit Accommodations

Nairobi has a wide variety of tourist hotels, from backpackers campsites(Upper Hill Campsite off Hospital Road)to five star establishments such as the Norfolk Hotel.

Nairobi International Youth Hostel (on Ralph Bunche Rd) has dorm beds available for 600/- or about $9.00USD. The Nairobi YMCA has doubles with a shared bathroom for 1,100/- or about $14.00USD, however checking in after 9 pm is not allowed unless you have previous reservations. There are a number of guesthouses that offer private rooms both with shared bathrooms and self contained rooms for between 1,000/- and 4,000/- per night. As long as you don't mind basic accommodations, there is no need to spend more than $10USD per night on a hotel or hostel. In less touristy areas, lodging can be found for as cheap as $1USD per night. Be wary of bed bugs, though - it may be advised to purchase insect spray and bring along your own sheet if you plan to travel very cheaply.

In addition the international Intercontinental and Hilton chains are also represented as well as a number of very highly regarded local chains(Serena and Sarova Hotels) Small "boarding and lodging" establishments are ubiquitous in downtown urban areas for low cost, although these are rarely safe as they are located in high crime are.

Apart for Nairobi, in Western Kenya there are nice hotels Viz Kisumus Imperial hotel www.imperialhotel.com ,Kisumu hotel, etc that offer ranging standards and costs of accommodation.

edit Education

There are a large number of colleges offering secretarial and computer courses in downtown Nairobi and Mombasa. There are also a large number of Universities both public and private and some do participate in student exchange programs with international Universities.

The Parklands University in Nairobi even has a law school exchange program. Consult your institution to see if you are able to study in Kenya.

edit Work

A high unemployment rate means work permits are required. These can be difficult to obtain unless you have specialized skills that lack in the workforce. You are best off being appointed abroad, as local employment opportunities are low paying and few and far between. There is a large number of international expatriates who work for non profit agencies like the U.N and other affiliated agencies. Their pay is very high in relation to local living standards and as a result they can afford to live in luxury.

edit Communications

Phones

Internet

edit Health And Safety

Protect yourself from mosquitoes, as they carry numerous diseases such as dengue fever, malaria and yellow fever. Get expert advice on malaria preventatives. Guard against mosquito bites. Wear long sleeves and long trousers and apply an effective insect repellent, for example one containing DEET. If travelling to other East African countries a yellow fever vaccination would be advisable so as to prevent complications and paying of bribes at the border. These can be administered at an affordable price at most reliable Nairobi clinics and hospitals.

Malaria prophylactics can be highly effective - consult your physician.

If you get flu-like symptoms including fever, consult a doctor immediately. If no doctor is available, take a treatment dose of an appropriate anti-malarial and go immediately to a hospital. While the public hospitals are slightly cheaper, long waits and poor conditions and care at these facilities may make it worthwhile to go to a private clinic. Costs will vary, but a typical trip to the hospital for malaria testing, doctor's consultation, and medication will cost between $12 to $30USD depending on the clinic. As malaria can become serious, a trip to the hospital is recommended at the first symptoms of malaria.

If you get such symptoms within 12 months of returning home, seek a doctor's advice very quickly and immediately tell him where you have been in the last year. Delayed treatment, even by just a few hours, can lead to permanent brain and liver damage or death.

Do not have unprotected sex as HIV/AIDS and other sexually transmitted diseases are a risk. Voluntary Testing and Counseling (VCT) clinics offer free testing and counseling for HIV/AIDS.

Cholera is another danger. When in effected areas, see a doctor immediately and drink plenty of water.

All water should be treated, either by boiling or through purifying tablets or filters. This includes Nairobi as well as rural areas. Typhoid fever is a risk and like malaria prophylactics, the vaccination is not 100% effective. All fruits and vegetables should be thoroughly washed. While eating from the roadside kiosks is part of the cultural experience that one should not miss out on, note that such places do not always have the highest sanitary conditions and stomach illnesses can result.

It is advisable to have traveller's and accident insurance.

Crime

Stay alert when walking or driving through Nairobi. You should be careful to always be aware of your surroundings and if possible ensure that you have a guide with you. Nairobi is not nicknamed 'Nairobbery' for nothing and even daylight muggings on crowded streets are not uncommon. Particularly avoid walking after dark (take a taxi if you can afford it, at least a bus if you can not). Avoid ostentatious displays of wealth and property, particularly tempting objects such as cameras, mobile phones, laptops, MP3 players etc. The bus from the airport to downtown is a notorious target for pickpockets. It is advisable for women travellers to avoid travelling alone and to have a male companion so as to present less of a tempting target.Muggings and robbing are a regular occurrence in downtown Narobi but are less prevalent in the uptown areas of Nairobi like Westlands which have very good security due to the well off individuals who live and work there.

If you are unlucky and get mugged, a good tactic is to wave your arms and start screaming at the would-be mugger. Confrontations with armed robbers, however, should be avoided – in this instance remember that your possessions are far less important than your life. Most criminals in Nairobi are more interested in a quick grab and dash than they are in a prolonged encounter. Since robbery is frequently punished by lengthy prison terms or even death, most muggers can be dissuaded by a good show of force. It is perfectly possible to see much of Nairobi without incident if you take sensible precautions.

The North of the country has a reputation for lawlessness, becoming more dangerous the closer you get to the Sudanese, Ethiopian and Somali borders – armed robberies and abductions by shiftas (bandits) on the roads in these areas are frequent. Avoid travelling to this part of the country if possible, and take special precautions if travelling by road – armed convoys are normal for this part of the country. Visitors to Lake Turkana (indicated on the map as Lake Rudolf) in the Northwest and Lamu in the Northern end of the coast are advised to travel there by air. Lodwar, Lokichokio ('Loki') and Moyale are towns best avoided by the casual traveller, unless you have business with the humanitarian organisations based there.

Emergency

Police

Fire Department

Hospitals

Gays and lesbians

Homosexuality is against the law but is practiced secretly. Any overt displays of homosexuality may, at times, result in open hostility. It is best to be discreet if engaging in any such activities with travel mates or locals. However, it is customary to hold a person's hand while engaged in conversation.

Illicit drugs and prostitution

Smoking

edit Getting Around

By plane

Most visitors will arrive through Jomo Kenyatta International Airport(JKIA) Nairobi(NBO). If you are already in Nairobi and need to get to the Airport, please make sure that you plan about 2 hours to get there as the main road to the airport has heavy traffic jams and security checks are tedious.

Kenya Airways(KQ) offers the most scheduled connections from JKIA and regular daily flights to the following destinations Mombasa, Malindi, Lamu and Kisumu are on offer. A return flight from Nairobi to Mombasa will cost about Ksh 11,000 (~$160). Online booking is available. Check in is 45 minutes before departure. Pay attention to the announcements while in Unit 3 of JKIA as passengers on different flights are put in the same waiting area. If you are flying from another destination to Nairobi using Kenya Airways in the tourist high season (July-September, December-February), note that KQ flights are frequently delayed and preference is given to international connecting passengers, Platinum frequent flier card holders and First class passengers.

A low cost no frills Airlines, Fly540 also flies from JKIA and offers scheduled connections to Mombasa, Malindi, Lamu, Kisumu and Masaai Mara. Plans are there to extend the service to the East African region. A return flight to Mombasa from Nairobi will cost about $99 (without tax!) Online booking is possible.

Another airline Air kenya flies from Wilson Airport Nairobi to: Mombasa, Malindi, Lamu, Amboseli, Maasai Mara, Meru, Nanyuki and Samburu. The lounge features a Dormans cafe and is mostly hustle free. Check in can be done up to 15 minutes before departure. Wilson Airport was once the busiest airport in Africa outside South Africa but still remains a major hub for local flights to the nature reserves in Kenya and to cities in neighbouring countries.

The East African Safari Air also flies from Nairobi to Malindi, Kisumu and Lokichogio.

Most charter tourist fly directly to either of the coastal airports of Mombasa or Malindi.

By train

The Kenya-Uganda railway starts from Mombasa via Nairobi to Kampala, Uganda. This is the famous "Lunatic Express" & was also featured in the Michael Douglas starrer "The Ghost and the Darkness".

By car

By bus

Kenya has a network of long distance bus lines. Speed is limited to 80km/h and the highways can be very bumpy and dusty so ensure you pick a comfortable and reputable coach company for the long journeys. Travelling during the day is preferable to travelling at night due to the threat of carjackings and road traffic accidents.

Local Buses in town comprise of private companies such as the green and yellow Citi Hoppa, which provide, all seating, comfortable transportation for an inexpensive fee (usually around US$ 0.66). They have regular services in and out of the Nairobi city suburbs. the usually seat 20-35 passengers (no standing passengers allowed by law) and are a cleaner and less hectic mode of transport than matatus, while still plying much of the same routes.

By Matatu

Matatus are privately operated minibuses, typically for 14 passengers and operating over short and medium distances. Travel by matatu can be risky as the vehicles are sometimes extremely badly driven, with matatu drivers swerving in and out of traffic and stopping at a moment's notice by the side of the road for passengers. Some are poorly maintained but many are to be found in fascinating and colourful decor. Previously matatus were usually packed to well over capacity – up to 25 people in a 14-seater vehicle – but in recent years there has been increased government regulation and policing of matatus especially in the larger cities, such that most matatus now provide seatbelts and do not exceed the vehicle's stated capacity. An unfortunate side-effect of better regulation has been a loss of individuality and character of some of the vehicles, and drivers and conductors are now obliged to wear set uniforms. Tourists should be especially careful that they are wearing the seatbelts provided, unless they wish to find themselves taken on an inconvenient unscheduled trip from a road checkpoint to the police station.

Although most matatus ply their trade along set routes, it is often possible outside of major towns to charter a matatu on the spot as a taxi to your your desired destination – make sure you have categorically confirmed your negotiated price and exact destination before the vehicle goes anywhere, or you may find yourself in the shadier areas of Nairobi at night at the mercy of an indignant matatu driver.

Matatus provide a very cheap and quick method of transport in all the major towns and many rural areas. The name matatu hails from the Kiswahili word for the number three – tatu – because some time ago the standard fare was three ten cent coins.

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