edit Afghanistan Travel Guide

• Band-e Amir - 5 stunningly turqouise lakes in a remote and beautiful setting, not far from Bamiyan.

• The Khyber Pass is the Gateway to India, an historic route of invasion and trade.

• The Jam|Minaret of Jam is well off the beaten path but some say worth the journey - possible as a roundtrip from Herat or when traversing the Central Route from Herat to Kabul.

• Panjshir Valley - a beautiful trekking area, leading to the famous Anjuman Pass.

• The Salang Pass is a high mountain pass and tunnel linking Kabul to the north.

• Shamali Plain north of Kabul. Shamali, meaning 'windy', is a green plain which produced a lot of the food for central Afghanistan. From Kabul it extends north through Charikar, Parwan province to Jabal os Saraj. The Taliban destroyed the irrigation systems and it is only just beginning to recover.

By Plane

Kabul International Airport in Kabul has been renovated and in good condition. There may be long delays at immigration and baggage claim. Near the existing terminal, a new modern-style terminal is under construction and is scheduled to be completed by 2008.

The national carrier, Ariana Afghan Airlines, is flying with a small fleet of about 14 Airbuses and Boeings (plus Antonovs). Ariana is banned from European air space for safety reasons. They have daily flights from Dubai, and periodic flights from Islamabad, Delhi, Istanbul, Baku and Tehran. Ariana is particularly bad at keeping to schedules, flights can be cancelled or delayed without notice.

A far better option is the independent operator Kam Air, which has twice daily flights from Dubai, twice weekly flights from Delhi and weekly flight from Almaty, Istanbul and Mashad. Some of the flights on the Dubai to Kabul route stop in Herat if you'd prefer to enter the country there. Pamir Airways is a new private airline that offers daily flights between Kabul and Dubai ($330 inbound, $210 outbound), some stopping in Herat.

Air Arabia flies 4 times per week from Sharjah - however they have currently suspended operations. Pakistan International Airlines (PIA) flies 4 times per week from Islamabad and 1 time per week from Peshawar to Kabul. Another route in may be via through Tehran or Mashad in Iran. Iran Air has periodic flights from Tehran to Kabul. Air India operates two flights a week from Delhi to Kabul.

Flights to other cities such as Mazar-e Sharif may be available if you can hook up with the charter company 'PacTec' however seating is very limited.

By car

From Peshawar, Pakistan via the Khyber Pass to Jalalabad and then proceeding to Kabul. From Quetta, Pakistan to Kandahar. From Mashad, Iran to Herat. From Uzbekistan to Mazar-e Sharif and from Tajikistan to Konduz. Travelling any of these routes should not be considered safe, especially Quetta to Kandahar.

By bus

Buses run regularly between Jalalabad and Peshawar, Pakistan. Also, between Herat and Mashad, Iran. Afghani buses are thouroughly checked by Iranian border police for possible drugs, so expect delays.

Afghanistan was created as a nation in 1747 by Ahmad Shah Durrani, with its capital at Kandahar. The country has a long history of warfare, mostly against invaders such as Alexander of Macedon, Mongols, Persians, and the British. Its recent history is no exception.

The Soviet Union invaded in 1979, to support a local socialist government. They were forced to withdraw 10 years later by anti-Communist mujahideen rebels, who were supplied and trained by the US, Saudi Arabia, Pakistan, Iran and others. Fighting subsequently continued among the various mujahideen factions, giving rise to a state of warlordism.

The Taliban grew out of this chaos, providing a solution to what was by this time a civil war. Backed by foreign sponsors, and inspired by a conservative sect of Islam, Taliban developed as a political force to end warlordism and bring security to the country. They eventually seized power and captured most of the country, aside from some areas in the North.

After the September 11, 2001 terrorist attacks in the US, the Taliban refused to hand-over Osama bin Laden and Al Qaida militants. The US and allies decided to take military action with support from anti-Taliban Afghans and Pakistan's government, causing Taliban's downfall.

In December 2001, representatives from all ethnic groups of Afghanistan met in Germany and agreed to form a new democratic government with Hamid Karzai as Chairman of the Afghan Interim Authority. Following a nationwide election in 2004, Hamid Karzai was elected as President of the Islamic Republic of Afghanistan. A year later, in 2005, legislative elections were held and the country's parliament began functioning again. In addition to occasionally violent political jockeying and ongoing military action to root out anti-government elements, the country suffers from poverty, corruption, and widespread opium cultivation.

In 2005, the United States and Afghanistan signed a strategic partnership agreement committing both nations to a long-term relationship. In the meantime approximately 30 billion US dollars are being spent on the reconstruction of the nation, most of this fundings come from America while some from European and Asian countries such as Britain, Germany, Japan, India, Saudi Arabia, Pakistan, Iran and others.

Mostly rugged mountains; plains in north and southwest. The Hindu Kush mountains that run northeast to southwest divide the northern provinces from the rest of the country, with the highest peaks in the northern Wakhan Corridor.

South of Kandahar is desert.

Elevation extremes : lowest point: Amu Darya 258 m highest point: Nowshak 7,485 m

The climate in Afghaistan is arid to semi-arid; cold winters and hot summers.

Temperatures in the north can be below freezing for most of the winter. Snow in the higher elevations is common. Summer-time highs can exceed 140 deg F (60 C) with daytime temps of 120 deg F (50 C) being common.

Afghanistan is a very diverse country ethnically. Tribal or local allegiances are strong, which complicates national politics immensely.

The two largest linguistic groups speak Pashto and Dari (Afghan Persian). Pashto speakers predominate in the South and East, Dari in
North and central Afghanistan.

About 11% of the population have Turkic languages, Uzbek or Turkmen, as their first language. Many of them are in the North, near Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan.

Baloch tribesmen, still largely nomadic, can be found anywhere between Quetta in Pakistan and Mashad in Iran, including much of Western Afghanistan. They make marvellous, if often somewhat simple, rugs.

There are about 30,000 to 150,000 Hindus and Sikhs living in different cities but mostly in Jalalabad, Kabul, and Kandahar who belong to the Punjabi, Sindhi, Kabuli, and Kandhari ethnic groups.

Hazaras in the Central mountains look much more Asiatic than other Afghans. According to some theories, they are descended from Ghengis Khan's soldiers.

Food should be approached with a discerning eye, hygiene standards can often be lacking. Hot, freshly cooked food is generally safer.

Hotels and guesthouses are available in all major cities, and while some may not meet international standards they are usually friendly and reliable.

Many foreigners are finding well paid work in Afghanistan as part of the reconstruction efforts. Often with the UN or other non governmental organisations. Most of these jobs are within Kabul. Local wages are very low, especially outside of Kabul. However, everyone should read and understand the travel advice published by their respective governments or in the Stay safe section below.
You will need a work visa if you are planning on working on a US military base.

Afghanistan has its fair share of health issues, and it would be wise to consult a travel doctor ahead of your trip about vaccinations and health risks. Respiratory diseases such as tuburculosis and food-related illness are common, and malaria is a risk in many parts of the country.

Afghanistan is one of the dustiest countries in the world, and you should be prepared to be covered in it and breathing it for most of your stay, even in the major cities. Pollution from diesel engines can also make life unpleasant.

Flies are notoriously heinous here, likely due to poor sanitation. Winter brings some relief, but they come back full-strength when spring arrives.

Food should be approached with a discerning eye, hygiene standards can often be lacking. Hot, freshly cooked food is generally safer. Bottled water is also advised, unless you have your own purification system.

Bring any prescription medicine you may need from your home country, don't count on being able to find it locally. You may also consider carrying pain relievers and anti-diorrheals, as they'll be hard to find outside of major cities.

As is most parts of Asia, squat toilets are the norm, and toilet paper optional and sometimes scarce. Western-style toilets are seen occasionally in newer buildings and some private homes.

Tour agencies

• Afghan Logistics & Tours,
  1. 106 Ansari Square, Street No 1, Shar-e Now, +93 70 277 408, +93 70 288 668, +93 799 391462, . One of the first and biggest travel companies in Afghanistan, with a South-East Asia branch office in Singapore.

• The Great Game Travel Company, Street 3/1 House 2 Proje Taimani, +93 79 948 9120 (Kabul) or +93 79 968 6686 (Kabul) +44 28-9091-3001 (UK), . Offers high security tours in central and northern Afghanistan.

• Sitara Travel Consultants Waheed Plaza, 3rd Floor, 52 West Jinnah Avenue, Blue Area, P.O. Box 1662 Islamabad, Pakistan. +92 51 287 3372-75, +92 51 227 4892-93, . Services Along The Silk Road.

By plane

Planes fly between Kabul and the major cities (Kandahar, Herat and Mazar-e Sharif) at varying frequency.

By car

There is a growing network of public transportation between the country's cities. Buses ply some routes and Toyota vehicles have a near monopoly on minivan (HiAce) and taxi (Corolla) transportation.

Jeeps and Land Cruisers are available for hire along with drivers who speak some English. There are tour operators in Kabul that can provide a car and guide. Petrol stations are scarce in the countryside, and fuel is expensive.

Paved roads are the exception, not the rule, and even those roads can be in poor repair. Once outside the major cities expect dirt roads (which turn to mud during rain or snow melt). The highway between Kabul and Bagram is dominated by military convoys and "jingle trucks". Stay out of the way of military convoys! They travel fast and are heavily armed.

A new highway links Kabul to Kandahar. The highway is in good condition but should not be considered safe due to frequent attacks by anti-government forces such as the Taliban and the poor standard of driving. The trip takes a minimum of 5 hours.